Ilha de Moçambique: a walking guide to the stone town

Ilha de Moçambique is small enough to walk end to end in under an hour, and dense enough to keep you occupied for days. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1991.

Start at the fort

The Fortress of São Sebastião occupies the northern tip of the island — a vast sixteenth-century structure whose walls enclose an area larger than most of the town. Inside it stands the Chapel of Nossa Senhora do Baluarte, completed in 1522 and generally regarded as the oldest surviving European building in the southern hemisphere. Go early, before the heat.

Through Stone Town

Walk south into the streets of coral-stone houses, lime-washed in ochre, white and pale blue. Some are immaculately restored; many are open to the sky with baobabs growing through the courtyards. The Palace and Chapel of São Paulo, the former governor's residence, is now a museum with much of its original furniture — a genuinely strange and evocative interior.

The waterfront on the eastern side is where dhows come and go. It is the best place to be an hour before sunset.

Makuti Town

The southern half of the island is where most islanders actually live, in palm-thatched houses arranged along sandy lanes. It is a living neighbourhood, not a sight — walk through it with respect, ask before photographing anyone, and consider going with a local guide, which is better for everyone.

Practical notes

• Water is genuinely scarce on the island. Use it carefully.
• Bring cash; card facilities are limited.
• The bridge from Lumbo is 3 km long and single-lane, with traffic alternating direction.
• Guides are available at the fort and are worth taking — the history here does not explain itself.